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Look at the chestnuts warm and good!
In the month of St. Martin's Day, we went to meet the protagonists of this celebration, where the chestnut is the queen.
Look at the chestnuts warm and good!

“On St. Martin's Day, fire, chestnuts, and wine.”

This popular saying comes to life on the streets of Porto, where the smoke from chestnut carts and the heat of the embers warm passersby. In November, the city fills with vendors who, with years of experience, keep alive an age-old tradition. We spoke to some of these guardians of memories and discovered, behind each cart, family stories and a lot of dedication.

On the busy Rua de Santa Catarina, we found the Figueiras family's cart – Margarida and Júlio, both 53 years old, and their 19-year-old son, Diogo. “We’ve been selling chestnuts for 15 years, it's a family business,” says Margarida.
The cry “hot and good!” echoes through the streets while Júlio closely watches the chestnuts on the grill. “The chestnuts are ready when they squeeze and come off the shell,” he explains, with an expert look. This year, the harvest was particularly good. “The first chestnuts of the year were very large; the ones that came now are very nice and golden.”


The tradition of street vending is deeply rooted in this family for generations.
Margarida, in good spirits, talks about the teamwork: “My son cuts the chestnuts, my husband is the roaster, and I take care of the decoration and talk to people.” It's one of the busiest carts, and it's no coincidence. “We pay a lot of attention to the presentation; people eat with their eyes,” says Margarida, revealing one of the secrets to success, and she adds that customers “are more foreigners than anything else!” “And they love it! They eat with the shell, without the shell… If it's not me saying 'take off the shells! take off the shells!', they eat everything,” she laughs.



Look at the chestnuts warm and good!

Família Figueiras © Rui Meireles

At Largo da Estação de Metro da Trindade, António da Silva Fernandes and his wife, Maria José, who have been selling on Porto's streets for 46 years, share their wisdom. “We roast chestnuts the old-fashioned way,” António says. The traditional method is simple but effective: “cut the chestnut shell, sprinkle it with water and salt, give it direct heat to open them up, then cover them and let them roast slowly with smoke and hot steam.” This year, the chestnuts are “amazing!” he assures. After a difficult year in 2023, due to bad weather, António says that “the harvest is good,” and that the ‘judia,’ one of the most appreciated varieties, is in “excellent condition.” And on St. Martin’s Day, November 11th, business doubles: “The day is celebrated with chestnuts and wine.”

Look at the chestnuts warm and good!

Augusto Lopes © Andreia Merca

We went down to Rua Sá da Bandeira and found Laura Santos and her husband, Manuel. Both 55 years old, they’ve been selling chestnuts for 20 years. Laura recalls: “I remember selling popcorn with my father on Santa Catarina since I was seven.” This year, there’s good news: “The chestnut is sweet and in November it’s just perfect.” For Laura, the secret to a good roasted chestnut lies in practice: “My husband looks at them and already knows when they’re ready.” Although they don't skip the “Hot and good!” claim, it’s their regular customers that keep the business going.


From the downtown, we went up to Boavista, where Augusto Lopes, with his “65 plus nine months,” as he likes to say, has lost count of how many years he's been selling chestnuts but remembers starting “when he was still in his mother’s belly.” For him, selling chestnuts is more than a business; it's a way of life. “There’s no need for a cry; people see the smoke coming out of the cart, the warm chestnut, and they come straight away.” He suggests accompanying them with jeropiga. On St. Martin’s Day, the rush is so much that his wife, Maria Manuel, joins him to lend a hand.

At Praça do Império, in Foz, Adolfo Ferreira dos Santos, 72 years old, has been selling chestnuts since he was 16. The formula for loyal customers is ensuring quality: “I always sort out the good chestnuts from the bad ones. This way, my customers know they can trust me.” Locals usually buy a cone of chestnuts at snack time. “Wherever I am, my customers know where to find me, and they come to buy from me.”


At the edge between Porto and Matosinhos, at the Anémona roundabout, we found Renato, the young man who has been selling chestnuts there for over seven years. It's a tradition that runs through several family members. He’s in a privileged spot but admits that the biggest challenge he faces “is the strong winds.” “When the weather is bad, everything flies away; it’s a problem.” But on November 11th, a rise in temperature is expected, the so-called “St. Martin's summer.”

Look at the chestnuts warm and good!

© Andreia Merca

It’s between October and March that we find these chestnut vendors on Porto's streets. In the warmer months, they switch chestnuts for popcorn, cotton candy, or ice cream and sell mainly at festivals and fairs. But all of them, they assure, prefer to sell chestnuts. Whether accompanied by a glass of new wine, 'água-pé', or 'jeropiga' (typical portuguese alcoholic drink), St. Martin’s Day is celebrated with chestnuts on the city’s streets, where the smoke from the embers and the smiles of the vendors remind us that traditions still have a special place in our everyday lives.

by Maria Bastos

Note: St. Martin's Day Celebration it is on November 11th, the date of his burial in Tours, that St. Martin's Day is celebrated. St. Martin was a Roman soldier who is believed to have been born around 316 in the ancient city of Savaria, in Pannonia, a former province on the border of the Roman Empire, in present-day Hungary. It is believed that, on the eve and the day of the celebrations, the weather improves and the sun appears. This event is known as the “St. Martin’s summer” and is often associated with the legend of St. Martin: On a cold and rainy winter day, Martin was riding his horse when he encountered a beggar shivering from the cold. Having nothing to give him, he took his sword and cut his cloak in half, covering the beggar with one of the parts. Further ahead, he met another beggar, with whom he shared the other half. With nothing left to protect himself from the cold, Martin continued on his journey. According to the legend, at that moment, the dark clouds disappeared, and the sun came out. The good weather lasted for three days.

Look at the chestnuts warm and good!

© Rui Meireles

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